A lot depends on what you are looking for. Some people use Americana Craft paints and like them. Personally, I think they look dull and chalky. They are also harder to work with than other "Artist grade" paints. $40 seems like about right for a set of paints, but if you buy it tube by tube you can get the job done for the same price, but actually have control over the paints you get. If, however, you are completely new to painting a starter set might be the way to go. No matter what, get the best paints you can afford. Paint quality is directly tied to quality in 99% of the brands out there. Other than Winso&Newton, you pay for quality and not the name.
Brushes are tricker. Good brushes are very expensive, but I feel that good brushes are bad for painting cards. Actually, it's more like the best brushes are not the best for painting cards. Super fine brushes are great to work with when you use oil with solvents or watercolor. Acrylic eats good brushes alive because it dries so quickly (long explanation I won't bore you with). So, go with smaller brushes that keep a decent tip. Mine are all the cheap Loew-Cornell $5 brushes from Michaels. Not great, but good enough. I have to buy new ones every 3-4 weeks, but you sacrifice durability for control.
I don't use markers.
Can I ask which brand you use? And do you know what color's someone should start out with, or which you always seem to be running out of? I guess with the right basics, you could always blend something if you needed to. I used to do oils on canvas, but havn't been able to in years so this should be fun
Can I ask which brand you use? And do you know what color's someone should start out with, or which you always seem to be running out of? I guess with the right basics, you could always blend something if you needed to. I used to do oils on canvas, but havn't been able to in years so this should be fun
I used Golden and I know a lot of people here do as well. There are other paints that work well, but they have the best selection of colors and the highest pigment load of any Acrylic that you will be able to find easily. Old Holland delved into Acrylics about 4 years ago and those are bonkers, but they aren't exactly at a lot of stores. Graham also makes a great acrylic, but they dry slower and tend to be more transparent. For painting Paintings, they are amazing, but for cards they haven't been as good.
I can't recommend a palette to start with. I use a very small and specific range of colors and I am pretty sure it would drive most people crazy. Just go to google and search for a beginning palette. You will probably want a Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, and White. In traditional painting, black is evil, but for cards I use it way more than I am comfortable with. Even with all of the primary colors there will be colors you can't match. So, it's a start but by no means a finished palette.
I could tell that you painted on larger canvases before. How? When you said, "or which you always seem to be running out of?" I would say that in all the cards I have altered I have used between 1-2 ounces total. The only one I have run out of is Pyrrol Red and it was empty when I started painting cards and I have been able to dip my brush into the empty tube for 6 months now to get the paint I need. Seriously, the scale is crazy. These are small and thinly painted paintings so you hardly use anything at all.
The best place to buy supplies is your local art supply store. Michael's is okay, but they typically have a bad selection of good art supplies and the people who work there are clueless about art; usually. All the big box craft stores are this way. You are going to get a better experience at most local shops just because they are usually picky about their hiring process. If those aren't appealing options and you can't buy locally, there are a ton of online art supply retailers that I have dealt with before. Most transactions with Utrecht, Jerry's Art-a-rama, Dick Blick, Daniel Smith, and Cheap Joes have been good. I have had problems with all of these in the past too, but I have probably spent close to $20,000 at these stores, so it's bound to happen.
Thanks for the tips Galspanic. I really appreciate the time you spent answering my question. Having frequently been a victim of Michaels' poor selection and staffing ignorance, I figured it would best to ask here before I wasted a trip (and probably a good chunk of cash). It sounds like I should look for Golden, and if Michaels does indeed have they have them, how expensive they are. Seems like I also need to be on the lookout for this special Airbrush frisket paper. It might just be easier to order online!
...Seems like I also need to be on the lookout for this special Airbrush frisket paper. It might just be easier to order online!
I use it occasionally now, but it seems that I use blue masking tape a lot more. I would say that it's a good tool to have a sheet of sitting around, but not necessary. I don't remember how much Michaels is, but just check their website. And apparently they have a lot of coupons, but I only go there in desperation.
i have a card that was signed with a sharpie, is there a way to remove the sharpie ink without removing the printed ink from the card? i was thinking acetone, or even rubbing alcohol.
I can't tell you what will work, but Acetone will remove everything but the paper. Rubbing alcohol is a maybe, but if I recall it doesn't do anything to Sharpies.
Actually Galspanic, Sharpies are soluble via rubbing alcohol so it will take it off. I'm not sure if rubbing alcohol will affect the card at all though, I'd be very gentle with a cotton ball and it should work.
Can someone recommend me some decent markers? I'm just getting started and using some sharpies, but they don't stand out against the cards colors too well..
Can someone with some large tournament experience elaborate on the legality of altered art cards? I understand it's up to the head judge's discretion, but who wants to drive 3 hours to a tournament just to be DQ'd for that? What kind of tests to they run? What needs to be visible from the original card to pass inspection?
Can someone with some large tournament experience elaborate on the legality of altered art cards? I understand it's up to the head judge's discretion, but who wants to drive 3 hours to a tournament just to be DQ'd for that? What kind of tests to they run? What needs to be visible from the original card to pass inspection?
There is no test.
Always have a back up since there are some judges that won't let you run mixed foil/non-foil decks. Some say anything more than an artist signature is illegal. And in my experience, as long as the card sits nice and flat with the rest of your deck and there aren't any visible markings from the side, they are cool with it.
If you are planning on driving 3 hours, cover your ass and have non-altered cards, and make sure you call the event coordinator in advance.
Always have a back up since there are some judges that won't let you run mixed foil/non-foil decks. Some say anything more than an artist signature is illegal. And in my experience, as long as the card sits nice and flat with the rest of your deck and there aren't any visible markings from the side, they are cool with it.
If you are planning on driving 3 hours, cover your ass and have non-altered cards, and make sure you call the event coordinator in advance.
This is very true.
Also:
- Do not interfere with the NAME of the card, MANA COST, or overwhelm the CARD RULING TEXT BOX. I say 'overwhelm' because if you want clothes/ribbon/a branch/ etc running across a small % of it, that is okay. But again, a judge may say "hey no alters period" which is equally fair. If you just extend the border of a card's art (extended art) this is the easiest/cleanest alter tournament-wise
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I mean, hell, we're all on a forum for something that most people would describe as a "children's card game"...do what makes you happy. You are never too old to enjoy yourself.
This is very true.
Also:
- Do not interfere with the NAME of the card, MANA COST, or overwhelm the CARD RULING TEXT BOX. I say 'overwhelm' because if you want clothes/ribbon/a branch/ etc running across a small % of it, that is okay. But again, a judge may say "hey no alters period" which is equally fair. If you just extend the border of a card's art (extended art) this is the easiest/cleanest alter tournament-wise
I have made a lot of full art textless cards and my clients have never reported any issues. Seriously, there are no rules. If you have more conservative alters they may be less likely to be denied by the head judge, but I have no evidence that suggests either way.
Maybe I'll start with some alterations on my Cephalid Coliseums, then take them to Worlds this Summer. If those get ok'd by a judge on the fly, then I may do the whole deck. If not, I know to only alter stuff I have a backup set for.
Anybody have a brand that they prefer for Acrylic Paint?
Golden. There are others, but they don't have nearly the pigment load, clarity, or price tag. A lot of people prefer their Fluid Acrylics, but I use heavy-Body just because it's why I use for my "real" painting.
Thanks for the intruiging thread especially Masamune and Galspanic! I am thinking about trying my hand at alters and you guys are a huge help. I see that Golden Acrylics seem to be the paint of choice, but how about brushes? I didn't see where anyone suggested a specific brand as being the best compromise of cost and quality. If one of you could enlighten me, I would really appreciate it.
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OH awesome thread! This has answered quite a number of my questions about card altering.
What I still don't know is how some people get such incredibly small detail? I get the idea of painting it first and thinning it with the layer on top - but some just can't be done like that.
What size/type brushes to people use for the incredibly small detail?
Thanks again for this post, it's so helpful. I'm going out soon, with my shopping list, and this is what I'm planning to get.
Golden fluid acrylics
Hansa yellow light
Primary yellow
Pyrrole red light
Cadmium red medium hue
Cobalt blue
Primary cyan
Titanium white
Bone or carbon black (I have no idea which is better)
I may get a few base browns
Yellow ochre
burnt sienna
raw umber
Then a few small brushes (all of the brushes I own are rather large ;)), a small plastic palette, some tape for blocking, a duo plast eraser, and some spray clear coat.
I do have one question. Is there any advisable trick to holding the cards in place while working? I was thinking of building a small makeshift easel out of cork board and just bracing them with pins (not piercing the card, of course).
I've cloned this list and buyed all on it. It's working simply great for my by now. I've spent in all those 750 argentinian pesos (around 190 dollars) It seems that Golden Brands seems to be the best brand for this, but I couldn't find it here. I've bought a mix of brands to complete the palette. Almost of the acrylics are from the same brand, and the quality is clearly good.
I personally only use Loew-Cornell brushes. I just like how they feel.
When I do my thin detail work, these are what I use. I've been told that beginners have trouble with longer bristles, though.
So instead of a Script, maybe get a thin liner. I use rounds and flats for larger areas.
EDIT: Also found a MUCH older pic! Some of my older brushes when I was still feeling out brush brands.
I no longer use the 'eraser', I just use crap commons for pallets, and I sign with the 10/0 Script :3
Hello!
I created an account here just to ask a question in this thread
I just started trying to paint on cards (not even 2 weeks ago) and I'm struggling with layering the paint. For example when I put the first layer of acrylic paint on the card, I paint it thin for the base coat. Then I let it dry over night. I come back the next day and go to apply a second "heavier" coat and in some spots the paint just wipes right off and I'm left with little holes of now unpainted spots. So some parts of it stick, others don't. I hardly put any pressure on the brush and I'm only using dabs of paint. I am using a magic rub eraser for the spots I am trying to paint on, but I noticed that the problem spots is where I don't erase all of the image, there's still faint evidence of it and I still see it even with a few layers of paint. In this situation I am using a basic yellow paint. Am I just not erasing good enough? I think I'm missing a concept or two -_-
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The problem I see is that you've only given it two coats of paint, and that you're giving it far too long to dry. Acrylic is a fast drying medium, so there's no reason to give it more than a minute or even less to dry between coats. Just keep adding thin coats of paint, and eventually it will be as opaque as you want. Of course, I'm only an amateur artist, and I'm only just getting started in card alteration, so I may be wrong.
Edit: Oops, I didn't realize this thread was weeks old, I just noticed the last post was written this year and assumed it was more recent than it actually was. Sorry about that.
I'm a new member here. I figured this would be the place to go for feedback since I just started playing around with altering cards. I've been painting for as long as I can remember--I actually studied art in college--but I haven't really touched acrylics since high school, and I definitely haven't worked on anything as tiny as a magic card!
Just a note to anyone looking for paint brands to use for card alters: I've found the Citadel paints that Warhammer model painters use is great since there are a ton of colour choices, the paints are a perfect consistency, dry fast, have great coverage (2-3 layers for base-coating) and are on the cheap(ish) side at about $4 per colour.
I'd recommend getting Black, White, Deneb Stone(great for a base coat and warmer white colour; I use it with almost every alter), and the brightest, most vibrant red, yellow and blue you can find. If you have a little extra cash to spend, add in an ochre yellow, mossy green and red-brown and that should be all the colours you'll need.
The brushes are decent too, although not the cheapest I've seen. You can get these paints at any store that sells Warhammer/Warmachine, etc, and many hobby/games shops.
Can I ask which brand you use? And do you know what color's someone should start out with, or which you always seem to be running out of? I guess with the right basics, you could always blend something if you needed to. I used to do oils on canvas, but havn't been able to in years so this should be fun
The only net decking I do involves the Home Depot
I can't recommend a palette to start with. I use a very small and specific range of colors and I am pretty sure it would drive most people crazy. Just go to google and search for a beginning palette. You will probably want a Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, and White. In traditional painting, black is evil, but for cards I use it way more than I am comfortable with. Even with all of the primary colors there will be colors you can't match. So, it's a start but by no means a finished palette.
I could tell that you painted on larger canvases before. How? When you said, "or which you always seem to be running out of?" I would say that in all the cards I have altered I have used between 1-2 ounces total. The only one I have run out of is Pyrrol Red and it was empty when I started painting cards and I have been able to dip my brush into the empty tube for 6 months now to get the paint I need. Seriously, the scale is crazy. These are small and thinly painted paintings so you hardly use anything at all.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
Thanks for the tips Galspanic. I really appreciate the time you spent answering my question. Having frequently been a victim of Michaels' poor selection and staffing ignorance, I figured it would best to ask here before I wasted a trip (and probably a good chunk of cash). It sounds like I should look for Golden, and if Michaels does indeed have they have them, how expensive they are. Seems like I also need to be on the lookout for this special Airbrush frisket paper. It might just be easier to order online!
I use it occasionally now, but it seems that I use blue masking tape a lot more. I would say that it's a good tool to have a sheet of sitting around, but not necessary. I don't remember how much Michaels is, but just check their website. And apparently they have a lot of coupons, but I only go there in desperation.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
I can't tell you what will work, but Acetone will remove everything but the paper. Rubbing alcohol is a maybe, but if I recall it doesn't do anything to Sharpies.
Edit: There you go
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WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
My Altered Art Gallery
UGExperiment KrajUG
There is no test.
Always have a back up since there are some judges that won't let you run mixed foil/non-foil decks. Some say anything more than an artist signature is illegal. And in my experience, as long as the card sits nice and flat with the rest of your deck and there aren't any visible markings from the side, they are cool with it.
If you are planning on driving 3 hours, cover your ass and have non-altered cards, and make sure you call the event coordinator in advance.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
This is very true.
Also:
- Do not interfere with the NAME of the card, MANA COST, or overwhelm the CARD RULING TEXT BOX. I say 'overwhelm' because if you want clothes/ribbon/a branch/ etc running across a small % of it, that is okay. But again, a judge may say "hey no alters period" which is equally fair. If you just extend the border of a card's art (extended art) this is the easiest/cleanest alter tournament-wise
10th at SCG: Syracuse (2014), GP:NJ Last-Chance Grinder Winner (2014):: Former Legacy Mod
I have made a lot of full art textless cards and my clients have never reported any issues. Seriously, there are no rules. If you have more conservative alters they may be less likely to be denied by the head judge, but I have no evidence that suggests either way.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
UGExperiment KrajUG
Yes. Yes you would
but I've altered pretty expensive cards myself, or am starting to =]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsjKsaxbnds <- Me.
Trades! Alters! Oh My!
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UGExperiment KrajUG
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Golden. There are others, but they don't have nearly the pigment load, clarity, or price tag. A lot of people prefer their Fluid Acrylics, but I use heavy-Body just because it's why I use for my "real" painting.
WUBRGPauper Battle BoxWUBRG ... and why I am not a fan of Wayne Reynolds' Illustrations.
What I still don't know is how some people get such incredibly small detail? I get the idea of painting it first and thinning it with the layer on top - but some just can't be done like that.
What size/type brushes to people use for the incredibly small detail?
So, thanks Shaharazad, you've been very helpful.
This is really a cool idea to start with. Thank you for posting it.
When I do my thin detail work, these are what I use. I've been told that beginners have trouble with longer bristles, though.
So instead of a Script, maybe get a thin liner. I use rounds and flats for larger areas.
EDIT: Also found a MUCH older pic! Some of my older brushes when I was still feeling out brush brands.
I no longer use the 'eraser', I just use crap commons for pallets, and I sign with the 10/0 Script :3
I created an account here just to ask a question in this thread
I just started trying to paint on cards (not even 2 weeks ago) and I'm struggling with layering the paint. For example when I put the first layer of acrylic paint on the card, I paint it thin for the base coat. Then I let it dry over night. I come back the next day and go to apply a second "heavier" coat and in some spots the paint just wipes right off and I'm left with little holes of now unpainted spots. So some parts of it stick, others don't. I hardly put any pressure on the brush and I'm only using dabs of paint. I am using a magic rub eraser for the spots I am trying to paint on, but I noticed that the problem spots is where I don't erase all of the image, there's still faint evidence of it and I still see it even with a few layers of paint. In this situation I am using a basic yellow paint. Am I just not erasing good enough? I think I'm missing a concept or two -_-
"If you don't shut up," hissed Mirri, "you'll see a kidney and a spleeny."
Edit: Oops, I didn't realize this thread was weeks old, I just noticed the last post was written this year and assumed it was more recent than it actually was. Sorry about that.
I'm a new member here. I figured this would be the place to go for feedback since I just started playing around with altering cards. I've been painting for as long as I can remember--I actually studied art in college--but I haven't really touched acrylics since high school, and I definitely haven't worked on anything as tiny as a magic card!
Here are my first four cards:
http://dreamscapeartist.wordpress.com/
Let me know what you think, or if you have ideas for cards I should take on next.
Oh, and do any of you use sealers on the finished cards for protection? What do you use?
Thanks,
Kathryn
I'd recommend getting Black, White, Deneb Stone(great for a base coat and warmer white colour; I use it with almost every alter), and the brightest, most vibrant red, yellow and blue you can find. If you have a little extra cash to spend, add in an ochre yellow, mossy green and red-brown and that should be all the colours you'll need.
The brushes are decent too, although not the cheapest I've seen. You can get these paints at any store that sells Warhammer/Warmachine, etc, and many hobby/games shops.
Hope this is of use to anyone.