i have i think about 500 purple dragonshield sleeeves i find the colour of your sleeves makes your deck look better and purple can go good with anything like are you gonnna take an izzetron deck in banna yerllow sleeves as serious as one in black sleeves i think it throughs people off
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pm me your rouge decks please i like to play decks that people wont predict!
I just wanted to know what kind of sleeves are the best in durability and that MTG cards can fit into. I don't want any images on them(unless they had kick-ass Azorius symbol on them), and I'd prefer white. Do you think my local Hobby Shop would have them?(I live in Iowa, around Iowa City)
So this "Dragon Shield" you are talking about is much, much better to use than the Ultra Pro I've learned to love and use?? I really have to look into that.
I used Ultra-Pro for a while but then I deiscovered Dragon Shields. They last longer than Ultra-Pro (from my expierience anyway) and they dont have the little plastic pictures on the back of htme that peel off after playing with them extensively.
Dark colored sleeves with mildly textured (but not foiled) backs and sheer fronts.
Best brand: Dragon Shields. Sleeve lengths are uniform and cover the tops of the cards well. Sleeve flatness is uniformly good, with a tendency towards concave curve, but this does not affect shuffling once card is inside. Surface wear is moderately telling, as the backs are glossy and smooth and the plastic is somewhat softer, marring more easily than Ultra-Pro but less easily than Japanese sleeves. Edge split is rare.
Ultra-Pro with textured backs, e.g. Metallic, Textured types are a close second. I bought 300 sleeves with matte textured backs in 2001 and am still using them in tournaments. Sleeve lengths are not always uniform, and some runs of Ultra-Pro sleeves have annoying irregularities in flatness, but luckily Ultra-Pros come in a resealable transparent baggie so you can pop the end open, assess the sleeve lengths and flatness, and select the best for your needs. Surface wear is well-hidden until the sleeves are practically falling off the card. The plastic is somewhat harder and more scratch-resistant; also, the texture hides marks and scuffs well, and provides less friction against the sleeve fronts when shuffling with sweaty or sticky hands. Edge split is more common, but tolerable.
Japanese sleeves come third. Plain gloss backs and plain gloss fronts are best. Sleeve lengths are perfectly uniform and sufficient to protect cards. Sleeve flatness is likewise perfect. Surface wear on the softer plastic of japanese sleeves is inevitable and sometimes leads to marked cards. Splits are exceedingly rare because the plastic of Japanese sleeves is soft and supple, and generally thinner than American or European sleeves. These sleeves quickly become sticky and hard to shuffle because their smooth surfaces provide maximum contact with one another and become tacky and sticky with moisture.
Other sleeves (Rook textured/foiled sleeves, picture sleeves) are undesirable for a variety of reasons. Picture sleeves are disallowed in tournaments for fear of marked cards, and can have problems with uneven lengths. Rook Textured sleeves with the garish shiny foil laminated backs are unsuitable because they're reflective enough to allow cheating, and the foil finish is actually a layer on the outside surface of the backs, and peels off readily. The underlying sleeve is rather shoddy and splits with moderate use. Ultra-Pro Fantasy and Satin and other holographic sleeves are disallowed for reflectivity and also are bad bad idea for expensive decks. Reason why? Apparently someone spilled some Dr. Pepper on a type 1 deck sleeved in Ultra-Pro green Holographic sleeves, and the green pigment leached out onto his cards.
I personally am a fan of dragonshields, jsut because they never rip and can handle abuse.
Now, ive had some plain blue ultra-pros that ive been using since my t-2 onslaught deck, that just refuse the wear down. Ive only ever ripped one, and thats when my dog got a hold of it.
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"Its not the size of the dog in the fight, its the size of the fight in the dog"
i like the japanese cuz it pwnz. my ultra pro cards broke after like...4 weeks of playing.
i think nearly everyone i vsd in the card shop uses dragon shield.
Yeah, Dragon Shields are in fact, the best for wear and tear. Still working on a set of purple Dragon Shields that I've had since 2003. Also, I enjoy playing with Japanese. I'd like to find some more if able.
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I'm also for the Dragon Shield sleeves because they are durable and worth it in terms of money. It is worth changing sleeves every so often though because after some time a judge might still label them as marked.
For a long time the best shields here in Brazil were Ultra Pro ones, but for now the best are PSA shields. They're PVC opaque and resistant shields that look great too. No pictures, 6 colors.
But in U.S. I guess that those orange shields should do fine.
EDIT: There is a drawback, even without the 60% import tax we pay over the other shields and mtg/card game products, since they're made in Brazil, they're still the most expensive shields here alongside with the japanese ones.
I relly DO believe in freedom of speech in internet media such as we do in real life, otherwise, why would someone talk in a kind of media which is ruled by a bunch of kids who filter what people say based on their personal preferences? The goal is to share opinions and ideas, am I wrong? Let people talk as they want then!! Don't we live in a free world?
For major tournaments i run Red Dragon Shields ive had since Regionals 2002/3 i belive. I use those because they are almost always the best condition to sit through 8-9 rounds at once. For other tournaments ill use a variety of different sleeves, but my favorite are my set of Dragon Shields
In my experience, Dragon Shields are great. They handle wear well and last a long time. Ultra Pros, IMO, aren't as bad as some people say. I've had one set for a year and a half and they are still going strong.
Has anyone here ever gotten Dragonshields and had them be really curved so when you put the cards in, they curve as well and the deck won't sit flat..etc are there any ways to solve this? lol
Dragon Shields. you get 100 of them in the box and they're the most durable. i still have some from 3 years ago and they are still playable. avoid the japanese ones as well as ultra pro. they are basically one time use sleeves perfect for limited.
Are Dragonshields the ones that have those pictures of dragons and other fantasy stuff on the back? Cause I don't think I've ever seen any regular Dragonshield sleeves, at events they usually just have ultrapro.
A few, yes.
Here is the first, where I prove I do not know how to type the word some.
This is another from about two months later that follows just about the same line of discussion.
Another request for sleeve help which I quickly rebuff.
And the beat goes on with this addition to the family.
There are several others about protecting and storing cards too in which discussion of sleeves begins.
I still think that Ultra-Pro are the best sleeves out there. They protect cards and now that I can shuffle correctly they endure alot.
http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=6198&highlight=best+sleeves
http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=34008&highlight=best+sleeves
http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=33061&highlight=best+sleeves
(Just search the archives for "best sleeves" and you'll find many more similar threads.)
Bad ones... don't.
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I used to write for MTGS, including Cranial Insertion and cube articles. Good on you if you can find those after the upgrade.
However no wonder Dragon Shields are the most popular and easiest to get
So this "Dragon Shield" you are talking about is much, much better to use than the Ultra Pro I've learned to love and use?? I really have to look into that.
Best brand: Dragon Shields. Sleeve lengths are uniform and cover the tops of the cards well. Sleeve flatness is uniformly good, with a tendency towards concave curve, but this does not affect shuffling once card is inside. Surface wear is moderately telling, as the backs are glossy and smooth and the plastic is somewhat softer, marring more easily than Ultra-Pro but less easily than Japanese sleeves. Edge split is rare.
Ultra-Pro with textured backs, e.g. Metallic, Textured types are a close second. I bought 300 sleeves with matte textured backs in 2001 and am still using them in tournaments. Sleeve lengths are not always uniform, and some runs of Ultra-Pro sleeves have annoying irregularities in flatness, but luckily Ultra-Pros come in a resealable transparent baggie so you can pop the end open, assess the sleeve lengths and flatness, and select the best for your needs. Surface wear is well-hidden until the sleeves are practically falling off the card. The plastic is somewhat harder and more scratch-resistant; also, the texture hides marks and scuffs well, and provides less friction against the sleeve fronts when shuffling with sweaty or sticky hands. Edge split is more common, but tolerable.
Japanese sleeves come third. Plain gloss backs and plain gloss fronts are best. Sleeve lengths are perfectly uniform and sufficient to protect cards. Sleeve flatness is likewise perfect. Surface wear on the softer plastic of japanese sleeves is inevitable and sometimes leads to marked cards. Splits are exceedingly rare because the plastic of Japanese sleeves is soft and supple, and generally thinner than American or European sleeves. These sleeves quickly become sticky and hard to shuffle because their smooth surfaces provide maximum contact with one another and become tacky and sticky with moisture.
Other sleeves (Rook textured/foiled sleeves, picture sleeves) are undesirable for a variety of reasons. Picture sleeves are disallowed in tournaments for fear of marked cards, and can have problems with uneven lengths. Rook Textured sleeves with the garish shiny foil laminated backs are unsuitable because they're reflective enough to allow cheating, and the foil finish is actually a layer on the outside surface of the backs, and peels off readily. The underlying sleeve is rather shoddy and splits with moderate use. Ultra-Pro Fantasy and Satin and other holographic sleeves are disallowed for reflectivity and also are bad bad idea for expensive decks. Reason why? Apparently someone spilled some Dr. Pepper on a type 1 deck sleeved in Ultra-Pro green Holographic sleeves, and the green pigment leached out onto his cards.
Now, ive had some plain blue ultra-pros that ive been using since my t-2 onslaught deck, that just refuse the wear down. Ive only ever ripped one, and thats when my dog got a hold of it.
i think nearly everyone i vsd in the card shop uses dragon shield.
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"Hello! I've come to serenade you. I can't play guitar. I can't play this accordion either, but I thought it'd be less obvious."
Dylan Moran, Black Books
but I have over a case for my personal use...lol
Current MTGO Player and paper reseller/speculator.
But in U.S. I guess that those orange shields should do fine.
EDIT: There is a drawback, even without the 60% import tax we pay over the other shields and mtg/card game products, since they're made in Brazil, they're still the most expensive shields here alongside with the japanese ones.
I relly DO believe in freedom of speech in internet media such as we do in real life, otherwise, why would someone talk in a kind of media which is ruled by a bunch of kids who filter what people say based on their personal preferences? The goal is to share opinions and ideas, am I wrong? Let people talk as they want then!! Don't we live in a free world?
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