So, with the new border changes, addition of holograms on rares, mythics, etc... How will this affect the altering community? I'm kind of panicking right now...
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[W]FREE STONEFORGE MYSTIC and JACE THE MINDSCULPTOR[/W]
The big thing with black is that it dries with a surface vastly different than the printed card. So, you can fight that or just use a spray coat to unify the sheen of the surface.
This.
When I started Altering, I just used my generic black, and on some cards, it looked fine.
But, when I started altering cards like Terminus and Enlightened Tutor, It didn't work out so well.
I actually found a way to get a really dark black to match the printed surface.
I started using Daler * Rowney System 3 Original Acrylic Mars Black.
The difference is incredible and now my black actually matches the printed card. I rarely have to go into the printed art to match colors anymore.
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i don't mind spending a little bit more to get a decent acrylic if for nothing else but the base and then go from there .... but not for sure what to get
now that the card has sat for a day or so. it will let me paint over it and not do that ... but is real textury looking ... so looks like a different paint for sure... will keep these just for miniatures ...
never thought of using brown with the color to get a darker shade ... black does darken it up pretty quickly.
If you mix black with brown (to get a darker brown) it'll work wonders when painting reds over it, a lot of times you can get away without even using black on an alter. You just have to find the darkest colors, for example I think the darkest brown is Burnt Sienna?
You just have to experiment with different things to get it to work right.
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okay, here is a photo of the paint along with a clip in the corner of how the paint came off when applying another layer on top of it ... it is on one of the red / white soldier tokens ... was a thin base of red of the same kind of paint. then mixed a little black in it and started to try to darken in the areas that would be dark.
I think it might be the paint you're using, I've never had that happen on ANY of my alters like that. You might switch it up to the walmart apple-barrel if you're on a tight budget, just be careful those are also very...transparent.
As for the color-blending, using straight black with red would be a no-no for me, with reds, Brown is your best friend, for darker shades you might mix a little black with the brown then use red/brown - red shades to lighten up closer to your light source.
I think if I was altering the R/W Soldier token, i'd base the entire frame Black/Brown (Dark) and then work on bringing the shades up from there.
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just getting started on trying to alter cards ... and have been trying a few different methods ... using markers (do not like) ... and using acrylics ... (gotta get the hang of it) ... i am accustomed to painting gaming miniatures and figured it would not be that hard of a process to move over to cards ... boy was i wrong ... i am quite sure it is something simple i am overlooking but figured i would ask instead of beating my head against the wall some more...
after putting a thin basecoat onto the card (craft store acrylics watered down) and letting it dry several hours i went to add a different color to start building up the gradient ... and with each brush stroke it would lift off the old paint under it ...
i had not applied any kind of matte spray or primer ... nor had i tried to erase any part of the card... was straight from a pack.
what am i not doing correctly?
You definately need to erase parts of the card for the basecoat to really stick. Usually i can put down a base layer on the white parts, and then my second layer is only a bit thicker than my initial base layer, which you want your paint to be about the same consistency as milk.
I definately recommend erasing the parts of the card you don't want, Also, if you're taping parts off to erase them, use the off-white masking tape, it works a lot better than say, electrical tape.
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Anyone have any tips for erasing new-border cards for alteration? Seriously, the bump from the card-type/expansion symbol bubble is getting in the way of me erasing flush against the border. It's easier with old-border cards, because the bump isn't there. Any tips?
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Want a FREE Playset of Foil Baneslayer Angels?!?:
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This.
When I started Altering, I just used my generic black, and on some cards, it looked fine.
But, when I started altering cards like Terminus and Enlightened Tutor, It didn't work out so well.
I actually found a way to get a really dark black to match the printed surface.
I started using Daler * Rowney System 3 Original Acrylic Mars Black.
The difference is incredible and now my black actually matches the printed card. I rarely have to go into the printed art to match colors anymore.
Please Visit my Alterations Page!
My Alters Sales Thread
Want a FREE Playset of Foil Baneslayer Angels?!?:
If you mix black with brown (to get a darker brown) it'll work wonders when painting reds over it, a lot of times you can get away without even using black on an alter. You just have to find the darkest colors, for example I think the darkest brown is Burnt Sienna?
You just have to experiment with different things to get it to work right.
Please Visit my Alterations Page!
My Alters Sales Thread
Want a FREE Playset of Foil Baneslayer Angels?!?:
I think it might be the paint you're using, I've never had that happen on ANY of my alters like that. You might switch it up to the walmart apple-barrel if you're on a tight budget, just be careful those are also very...transparent.
As for the color-blending, using straight black with red would be a no-no for me, with reds, Brown is your best friend, for darker shades you might mix a little black with the brown then use red/brown - red shades to lighten up closer to your light source.
I think if I was altering the R/W Soldier token, i'd base the entire frame Black/Brown (Dark) and then work on bringing the shades up from there.
Please Visit my Alterations Page!
My Alters Sales Thread
Want a FREE Playset of Foil Baneslayer Angels?!?:
You definately need to erase parts of the card for the basecoat to really stick. Usually i can put down a base layer on the white parts, and then my second layer is only a bit thicker than my initial base layer, which you want your paint to be about the same consistency as milk.
I definately recommend erasing the parts of the card you don't want, Also, if you're taping parts off to erase them, use the off-white masking tape, it works a lot better than say, electrical tape.
Please Visit my Alterations Page!
My Alters Sales Thread
Want a FREE Playset of Foil Baneslayer Angels?!?:
Please Visit my Alterations Page!
My Alters Sales Thread
Want a FREE Playset of Foil Baneslayer Angels?!?: