I'd go for 2x Alpha/ 2x Beta/ 2x Unlimited, in hopes of getting P9. Otherwise, 2x Mirrodin/ 2x Darksteel/ 2x Modern Masters for nutty artifacts seems good. Saga/Torment/Zendikar also seems fine.
good luck finding the alpha/beta/unlimited or being able to afford them if you do, youd be spending more than the prize pool to even compete and the value of what you open in them is not likely to be anywhere near the value of them sealed... you are basically saying spend $12000 to win a $100 prize and turning the $12000 in packs into about $100 worth of cards unless you maybe pull something of value to break even (1% chance), do yourself a favor and never gamble
As part of a project I'm doing with my LGS to get people into legacy in my area, I went over legacy to create a database of stock lists for each archetype. I got more than 70 lists with prices ranging from $50 to $2000. Not one could be considered "the deck to beat" for more than a single tournament because if a single deck starts swinging that way, every deck will have a way to hate on it, which will relegate it to the bottom of the meta..
I would really love to see the lists you are making if they are available. I didn't play for years and I'm still trying to catch back up on my card knowledge and a lot of the places I look for that type of info are either woefully out of date or written by people who are really bad at the game.
Somehow that's always forgetten in this argument.. A rotating card pool is not a bug, it's a feature.
Also, it's MUCH easier to find Standard events than it is to find Legacy events.
Yep, money issues aside the next question is: "where are you playing?"
Around here it breaks down like this:
standard 4 to 8 events per month
modern 1 to 2 events per month
legacy 1 or 2 events PER YEAR
vintage ~ never local, would have to travel 200+ miles
Other formats:
Commander 1 to 2 events per month
2 headed giant 1 a month
Sealed 1 to 2 events per month
draft 4 to 8 events per month
league 4 events per month
That's just the tournament's with prizes I can think of that come up regularly on schedule at the LGS.
I mostly stick with league (1 a week) and draft (1 a week). If I have time (or for pre releases) I may go to more, but 8 tournaments a month is usually enough, with a few casual games in between
I am referring to dipping the corner in acetone and taking the foil layer off completely to just get a blank white card. using it for tokens and I keep getting this left over material on the white card. I know I have read there are specific sets to do this with.
If you are only using these for tokens, it is far easier to just take a land card and spray (or brush) the front with white (or grey) primer paint
A thin layer will blank the card and leave it smooth and white (or grey)
The primer also makes it super easy to paint over (or even to print over ~ the ink/paint sticks/drys better to the primer than to the naked card face)
Blanking a foil just to use as a token is far more time consuming and you still end up with a surface that doesn't hold paint/ink as well as the primer would
You can also sand paper the fronts of lands before you prime them, just a few swipes to rough up the surface and remove the bulk of the image (you dont need to get off all of it)
I wonder; would ebay/tcgplayer purchase history be enough as proof? Compared to random photos that you could just pull off the internet, I feel like that would be much more convincing. I could be wrong though.
In civil court it would be up to the judge, this along with testimony from witnesses that have seen the cards in the binder might be enough. But again is it worth the time and could you get the witnesses to bother?
Also, even if you win it can take a long time to get paid (if ever) if the person you are suing is poor and does not have the money. (or even simply refuses to pay ~ you have to go through a whole nother legal hoop of placing liens against property and such)
---
Another side to all of this: no matter what you choose, if it involves taking time off from work (for court), you almost never are allowed to sue for time off work so you will lose potential income unless you waste vacation days dealing with this issue. It really ends up being a losing proposition for small claims where the judgement is likely going to be for less than the amount of time and effort you put into it.
I'm shocked that the parents are taking your side. They're supposed to be there for their children.
So you would teach your kid it's OK to steal without repercussions? That's a brilliant way to encourage him to end up in prison as an adult, good parenting there.
Being there for your kid means not letting him get beat up for being a thief, or not allowing him to be taken advantage of if this goes to court (as in not letting him get sued for some crazy amount like a million dollars when he only stole a thousand)
It does not mean teaching your kid that he can be a thief and you'll just interfere and try to prevent him from getting in trouble. Good parenting involves letting your kid know that you love him no matter what, but still letting him face the consequences of his own actions so he learns not to do it again
My advice? Let it go. Yes, it's a lot of money, but it's a lot of money that you already wrote off as gone and not recoverable. Be happy with the thought that you caught the person who did it, he's being punished, and that you're getting some minor compensation for it. Maybe push for some more, maybe some system of repayment, but if they decline, there's not much you can do, and being an ass about it isn't gonna help. And if you do want to go the legal route, well, it won't be easy - the kid is broke.
Actually, no. Minors are responsible for their own torts, and you cannot pursue a parent for a tort a minor commits. The parent might feel a sense of responsibility to pay for damages, and they should absolutely discipline the child, but you likely can't sue the parents here unless they're negligent somehow.
(note that Your Local Laws May Vary, so talk with a lawyer first regardless of whether you believe me or not if you do want to take legal action. I'm repeating what I learned about common law in class)
I don't know where you are getting your information but nearly every state allows you to go after the parents for the actions of the child. There are limits to the amount, but you can still do it; here is a list of value caps per state:
Arizona for example you can hold the parents liable for up to $10,000 of the minor's actions defined as: Parent liable for the child's willful or malicious damage to a person or property (that includes theft or shoplifting) the applicable statute section is: A.R.S.§12-661
The amount you can go after the parents for is different in every state and in some cases depends on the activity (Colorado caps the the theft limit at $250 compared to California the cap is $25,000 unless a gun is involved and than its $60,000) so yes you need to check for what the limit is in each state, but there are very few where you can't at least get something. ~ plus they would have to cover court costs/filing fees
So what should I do? How does small claims court work in regards to a theft case? Should I just try and push them to give me something more? If I do go with small claims, is my word enough to back up what was taken or would I have to prove that those cards were in that binder?
The bigger problem here is going to be proving value. Even had this gone to criminal court (and it didn't since you did not have the kid arrested), criminal courts do not award damages to the victim. You have to sue in civil court. Civil court is only going to award based on what it cost you to obtain said item minus depreciation.
So assuming you could even prove the number of cards that are missing; a court is very likely to only give you retail price minus deprecation value. It's a big problem trying to claim a rare from a pack is worth $20 if said pack only costs you $3. You would need some of kind of tracked history of the item being in your possession and having been bought/sold by you at the higher collector value or it's only going to be valued at $3 minus the other 14 cards.
By the way, this is a big reason you see so many cases on court TV. Technically it's not a real court, it's an arbitration with a legal binding contract written up at the end, but the big draw here is that both sides get paid just for being on television. So win or lose you get paid for the TV appearance (usually around $100 + hotel + travel) and so does the person you are going after. So it's kind of a win win for both of you. In some cases the show has even paid the damages that were awarded (I don't know what the criteria are ~ I think it's just a producers decision on how interesting they think your case will be), this alleviates the burden on the losing party (which is why you see so many cases where you might think "why would you subject yourself to being humiliated on TV?" ~ these people are smarter than they look, they are letting the TV show pay for part or all of what they owe to someone while avoiding real court)
-In my state, due to the value of the collection, this is in fact a felony if I decide to bring it to court.
It really does not matter if the value is felony level unless you are trying to get the kid arrested. Felony court will not award you damages anyway it would only decide if the child needs to go to jail (juvenile detention in this case), it will not give you anything.
Getting your cards/value back is simply you suing in civil court. Even if you had him arrested and charged with the felony you would need to file a separate civil case to get the value. But you can just sue without charging him as well. Any judgement of guilt from the felony case would just be additional proof you could use during the civil case, but isn't actually required. Assuming you had some way to prove the value of your cards (beyond retail price of pack buying); you could just tell the judge you didn't want the kid sent to jail and that you just want the cards/value which is why you didn't press charges for the felony ~ it happens more often than you might realize.
Besides the fact it would just drag this out longer, the felony charge would likely take a year or more to resolve and than you'd have to wait until after to file for civil if you wanted to use it as part of your proof.
It's much easier for everyone if you just skip straight to civil court (or avoid it all and go for arbitration ~ which is also typically available and even faster than civil court)
Arbitration would let you sit down with a legal adviser and have them explain the laws to both sides and the likelihood of who would win and the value of the judgement. Both parties than sign a legal contract binding how much is to be paid to which person. If that person fails to pay the contract, you now have to sue them in civil court but you have the contract as proof of what they owe you so the process is faster and of course if they just pay up you've both avoided court costs and time lost (TV courts take arbitration one step further and pay you both for being on TV in addition to doing the arbitration ~ they just pretend its a real court while doing the arbitration for the sake of TV)
It's the easiest way for you to resolve this while avoiding some of the legal red tape that could drag this out longer (whether or not you use the TV court version of it or not)
Not quite. It's a bit over $185 a box over here (retail), and has been like that for years
I sure hope you realize that people in Brazil and eastern European countries make several times less than an average American...
maybe, but than you also have to compare living expenses
the average US wage is $23,000 usd, which is the same as $16,000 euros or $50,000 in Brazilian reals
something else to consider, averages do not mean most people make that much. the reality is a huge portion of our population make far less than this, and its the few who make more that bring our average up.
greater than half the population makes less than this average; and those on minimum wage make at least 30% less (even if they are working full time, worse if they are part time)
its not all champagne and caviar; our living expenses are high, our taxes are high, our insurance rates are high and our healthcare system is a joke unless you pay out of pocket at ridiculously high rates
those numbers are also pre tax
i make probably $20k a year, 40% to taxes leaves me at $12k; take out another $9600 a year for rent; that leaves me with about $46 a week for food, gas, entertainment, clothing, and any other expense you can imagine.
So if you are left with more than 34 euros a week after paying your taxes and your rent, you are doing better than this average american
the only way to even attempt to live even remotely comfortable on an average wage in the US is with a roommate (or wife/husband) and sharing expenses.
I live mostly on ramen noodles just to afford MTG and our other hobbies
The most expensive card to ever actually sell has been a highly graded black lotus; other cards have come close (summer magic, etc), but none have actually reached the price that a black lotus has sold at ($50,000)
The most expensive card actually available on the market, an even higher graded black lotus that includes signatures from Richard Garfield and Christopher Rush, currently listed at $100,000. But it hasn't actually sold, so we won't know it's real market value until someone pays for it
The most expensive card offer ever made? Proposal
The real card art for this has never even been made available online. 10 copies exist, 9 originals and 1 remake. According to the few people who own them (all friends of Richard Garfield), they have been offered a million, but none have been willing to sell. 1 was stolen from the original artist; and its location is currently unknown. The reprint was commissioned by Garfield and given to the artist, its now in a vault as are all other legitimately owned copies.
The cards that have 1 copy? world champ was sold by the original owner for supposedly 10 or 15k when he needed to expand his business; there's been no public viewing of the card in over a decade
The dragon? who knows what its worth, its all just idle speculation until the owner makes a deal for it.
So, I bought a few Pox from the Ice Age Block from TCGPlayer, and they came in today. The cards feel oddly flimsy compared to the average MTG card. Moreover, the cards are printed a little skewed "up". The the card name almost touches the top edge of the card.
The cards I bought were in Moderately played condition, so is it possible that the card is just worn and not a fake? I don't have a scanner, so I apologize for being unable to give scans.
if the card is off center like you describe, it should be off center by equal amounts on the front and back, this would be a miscut card and is one of the most common types of mis print
as for the thickness, a lot of the older cards have a different feel to them, you would need a larger pool of cards from the same time period to compare
id tell you to try the light test, but again you would need more cards from the same set to see if the light passes through them with the same characteristics
without pictures or more details there isnt much anyone can help you with, perhaps take it to a local store and see if they have cards from that set to compare
but; i really doubt anyones bothering to fake a cheap card like this, the amount of time and effort required to get something that looks even remotely real would be better spent faking cards of actual value
the other tests you can run easily:
bend test, will tell you if the front of the card is a sticker and water test will tell you if the ink on the front is from a low quality printer. neither of those tests is valid for a high quality fake, but they will catch the super bad fakes done with cheap home printers
I will probably never understand why people hate the designs. They look fine to me.
I've learned to sit in the corner now while working; my last piece was a demon undressing an angel, and just my luck a girl scout troop was there the same day I was working on it, I had to keep covering it every time one of them got nosy and walked over to look
We don't have Wizards' event reporter, we're just running tournaments by hand. Generally they are 3 Swiss rounds, so people will often have similar tiebreakers.
Typically 4 rounds are used in Swiss as it creates more variation in the tie breakers. At 3 rounds you will have a very large number of people with identical tie breaks, it takes 4 to get reach the first level of real differences
Example:
round 1; you have half your players tied for first, and half your players tied for second
round 2; you have a quarter tied for first and so on
round 3; you have some diversity but still too frequently youll have 2 to 3 people tied at first or second places
round 4; you should have enough tie breakers that it will be rare (not not impossible) for people to have identical tie breaks (and in those cases you just add their prize pools, so 2 people tied at first are actually first and second place, you add prizes 1 and 2 and split it between them, 3rd place still gets their 3rd place prize and so on)
Barlan (above) already listed commonly used tie breakers for swiss format; or as has been mentioned the WOTC event reporter (free software) will do it all for you; but the most important thing to realize is that you are still going to have a hard time getting enough diversity in the tie breakers without 4 rounds
In a fast competitive format you want to draw the cards you need rather than draw cards that draw cards that search for the cards you need.
In a slower casual setting, yes, feel free to go over 60. Just make sure you keep your land/spell ratio consistent.
In casual land, you are not required to play against anyone you do not want to.
EDH players may stop you. Many EDH players refuse to play against my 300 card singleton.
I'd be more afraid of a 300 card battle of wits deck (4 copies) than a 300 card singleton; as a singleton it shouldn't be any harder to face than a competitive 100 card EDH deck; they decks must be designed for casual rather than competitive
Competitively no, there's just no advantage to going over 60
Casual? do whatever you want. I have an elf deck that's sitting around 70 cards, but I built it for the theme and I don't want to cut anything. Many of the cards are only 1 or 2 copy's, but it's just a fun tribal deck and it plays fast enough and has some card draw that in a casual setting it has no real drawbacks
Come to think of it I should probably just reassemble it into a 100 card commander deck, no ones playing tribal anymore anyway
good luck finding the alpha/beta/unlimited or being able to afford them if you do, youd be spending more than the prize pool to even compete and the value of what you open in them is not likely to be anywhere near the value of them sealed... you are basically saying spend $12000 to win a $100 prize and turning the $12000 in packs into about $100 worth of cards unless you maybe pull something of value to break even (1% chance), do yourself a favor and never gamble
those would be my choices; and they won't break the bank in cost.
I would really love to see the lists you are making if they are available. I didn't play for years and I'm still trying to catch back up on my card knowledge and a lot of the places I look for that type of info are either woefully out of date or written by people who are really bad at the game.
Yep, money issues aside the next question is: "where are you playing?"
Around here it breaks down like this:
standard 4 to 8 events per month
modern 1 to 2 events per month
legacy 1 or 2 events PER YEAR
vintage ~ never local, would have to travel 200+ miles
Other formats:
Commander 1 to 2 events per month
2 headed giant 1 a month
Sealed 1 to 2 events per month
draft 4 to 8 events per month
league 4 events per month
That's just the tournament's with prizes I can think of that come up regularly on schedule at the LGS.
I mostly stick with league (1 a week) and draft (1 a week). If I have time (or for pre releases) I may go to more, but 8 tournaments a month is usually enough, with a few casual games in between
If you are only using these for tokens, it is far easier to just take a land card and spray (or brush) the front with white (or grey) primer paint
A thin layer will blank the card and leave it smooth and white (or grey)
The primer also makes it super easy to paint over (or even to print over ~ the ink/paint sticks/drys better to the primer than to the naked card face)
Blanking a foil just to use as a token is far more time consuming and you still end up with a surface that doesn't hold paint/ink as well as the primer would
You can also sand paper the fronts of lands before you prime them, just a few swipes to rough up the surface and remove the bulk of the image (you dont need to get off all of it)
In civil court it would be up to the judge, this along with testimony from witnesses that have seen the cards in the binder might be enough. But again is it worth the time and could you get the witnesses to bother?
Also, even if you win it can take a long time to get paid (if ever) if the person you are suing is poor and does not have the money. (or even simply refuses to pay ~ you have to go through a whole nother legal hoop of placing liens against property and such)
---
Another side to all of this: no matter what you choose, if it involves taking time off from work (for court), you almost never are allowed to sue for time off work so you will lose potential income unless you waste vacation days dealing with this issue. It really ends up being a losing proposition for small claims where the judgement is likely going to be for less than the amount of time and effort you put into it.
So you would teach your kid it's OK to steal without repercussions? That's a brilliant way to encourage him to end up in prison as an adult, good parenting there.
Being there for your kid means not letting him get beat up for being a thief, or not allowing him to be taken advantage of if this goes to court (as in not letting him get sued for some crazy amount like a million dollars when he only stole a thousand)
It does not mean teaching your kid that he can be a thief and you'll just interfere and try to prevent him from getting in trouble. Good parenting involves letting your kid know that you love him no matter what, but still letting him face the consequences of his own actions so he learns not to do it again
I don't know where you are getting your information but nearly every state allows you to go after the parents for the actions of the child. There are limits to the amount, but you can still do it; here is a list of value caps per state:
http://theprotectors.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Parental-Responsibility-Chart.pdf
Arizona for example you can hold the parents liable for up to $10,000 of the minor's actions defined as: Parent liable for the child's willful or malicious damage to a person or property (that includes theft or shoplifting) the applicable statute section is: A.R.S.§12-661
The amount you can go after the parents for is different in every state and in some cases depends on the activity (Colorado caps the the theft limit at $250 compared to California the cap is $25,000 unless a gun is involved and than its $60,000) so yes you need to check for what the limit is in each state, but there are very few where you can't at least get something. ~ plus they would have to cover court costs/filing fees
---
The bigger problem here is going to be proving value. Even had this gone to criminal court (and it didn't since you did not have the kid arrested), criminal courts do not award damages to the victim. You have to sue in civil court. Civil court is only going to award based on what it cost you to obtain said item minus depreciation.
So assuming you could even prove the number of cards that are missing; a court is very likely to only give you retail price minus deprecation value. It's a big problem trying to claim a rare from a pack is worth $20 if said pack only costs you $3. You would need some of kind of tracked history of the item being in your possession and having been bought/sold by you at the higher collector value or it's only going to be valued at $3 minus the other 14 cards.
By the way, this is a big reason you see so many cases on court TV. Technically it's not a real court, it's an arbitration with a legal binding contract written up at the end, but the big draw here is that both sides get paid just for being on television. So win or lose you get paid for the TV appearance (usually around $100 + hotel + travel) and so does the person you are going after. So it's kind of a win win for both of you. In some cases the show has even paid the damages that were awarded (I don't know what the criteria are ~ I think it's just a producers decision on how interesting they think your case will be), this alleviates the burden on the losing party (which is why you see so many cases where you might think "why would you subject yourself to being humiliated on TV?" ~ these people are smarter than they look, they are letting the TV show pay for part or all of what they owe to someone while avoiding real court)
It really does not matter if the value is felony level unless you are trying to get the kid arrested. Felony court will not award you damages anyway it would only decide if the child needs to go to jail (juvenile detention in this case), it will not give you anything.
Getting your cards/value back is simply you suing in civil court. Even if you had him arrested and charged with the felony you would need to file a separate civil case to get the value. But you can just sue without charging him as well. Any judgement of guilt from the felony case would just be additional proof you could use during the civil case, but isn't actually required. Assuming you had some way to prove the value of your cards (beyond retail price of pack buying); you could just tell the judge you didn't want the kid sent to jail and that you just want the cards/value which is why you didn't press charges for the felony ~ it happens more often than you might realize.
Besides the fact it would just drag this out longer, the felony charge would likely take a year or more to resolve and than you'd have to wait until after to file for civil if you wanted to use it as part of your proof.
It's much easier for everyone if you just skip straight to civil court (or avoid it all and go for arbitration ~ which is also typically available and even faster than civil court)
Arbitration would let you sit down with a legal adviser and have them explain the laws to both sides and the likelihood of who would win and the value of the judgement. Both parties than sign a legal contract binding how much is to be paid to which person. If that person fails to pay the contract, you now have to sue them in civil court but you have the contract as proof of what they owe you so the process is faster and of course if they just pay up you've both avoided court costs and time lost (TV courts take arbitration one step further and pay you both for being on TV in addition to doing the arbitration ~ they just pretend its a real court while doing the arbitration for the sake of TV)
You can find more info on arbitration at sites like this:
http://www.usam.com/services/arb_qa.shtml
It's the easiest way for you to resolve this while avoiding some of the legal red tape that could drag this out longer (whether or not you use the TV court version of it or not)
maybe, but than you also have to compare living expenses
the average US wage is $23,000 usd, which is the same as $16,000 euros or $50,000 in Brazilian reals
something else to consider, averages do not mean most people make that much. the reality is a huge portion of our population make far less than this, and its the few who make more that bring our average up.
greater than half the population makes less than this average; and those on minimum wage make at least 30% less (even if they are working full time, worse if they are part time)
its not all champagne and caviar; our living expenses are high, our taxes are high, our insurance rates are high and our healthcare system is a joke unless you pay out of pocket at ridiculously high rates
those numbers are also pre tax
i make probably $20k a year, 40% to taxes leaves me at $12k; take out another $9600 a year for rent; that leaves me with about $46 a week for food, gas, entertainment, clothing, and any other expense you can imagine.
So if you are left with more than 34 euros a week after paying your taxes and your rent, you are doing better than this average american
the only way to even attempt to live even remotely comfortable on an average wage in the US is with a roommate (or wife/husband) and sharing expenses.
I live mostly on ramen noodles just to afford MTG and our other hobbies
The most expensive card actually available on the market, an even higher graded black lotus that includes signatures from Richard Garfield and Christopher Rush, currently listed at $100,000. But it hasn't actually sold, so we won't know it's real market value until someone pays for it
The most expensive card offer ever made? Proposal
The real card art for this has never even been made available online. 10 copies exist, 9 originals and 1 remake. According to the few people who own them (all friends of Richard Garfield), they have been offered a million, but none have been willing to sell. 1 was stolen from the original artist; and its location is currently unknown. The reprint was commissioned by Garfield and given to the artist, its now in a vault as are all other legitimately owned copies.
The cards that have 1 copy? world champ was sold by the original owner for supposedly 10 or 15k when he needed to expand his business; there's been no public viewing of the card in over a decade
The dragon? who knows what its worth, its all just idle speculation until the owner makes a deal for it.
if the card is off center like you describe, it should be off center by equal amounts on the front and back, this would be a miscut card and is one of the most common types of mis print
as for the thickness, a lot of the older cards have a different feel to them, you would need a larger pool of cards from the same time period to compare
id tell you to try the light test, but again you would need more cards from the same set to see if the light passes through them with the same characteristics
without pictures or more details there isnt much anyone can help you with, perhaps take it to a local store and see if they have cards from that set to compare
but; i really doubt anyones bothering to fake a cheap card like this, the amount of time and effort required to get something that looks even remotely real would be better spent faking cards of actual value
the other tests you can run easily:
bend test, will tell you if the front of the card is a sticker and water test will tell you if the ink on the front is from a low quality printer. neither of those tests is valid for a high quality fake, but they will catch the super bad fakes done with cheap home printers
I've learned to sit in the corner now while working; my last piece was a demon undressing an angel, and just my luck a girl scout troop was there the same day I was working on it, I had to keep covering it every time one of them got nosy and walked over to look
Typically 4 rounds are used in Swiss as it creates more variation in the tie breakers. At 3 rounds you will have a very large number of people with identical tie breaks, it takes 4 to get reach the first level of real differences
Example:
round 1; you have half your players tied for first, and half your players tied for second
round 2; you have a quarter tied for first and so on
round 3; you have some diversity but still too frequently youll have 2 to 3 people tied at first or second places
round 4; you should have enough tie breakers that it will be rare (not not impossible) for people to have identical tie breaks (and in those cases you just add their prize pools, so 2 people tied at first are actually first and second place, you add prizes 1 and 2 and split it between them, 3rd place still gets their 3rd place prize and so on)
Barlan (above) already listed commonly used tie breakers for swiss format; or as has been mentioned the WOTC event reporter (free software) will do it all for you; but the most important thing to realize is that you are still going to have a hard time getting enough diversity in the tie breakers without 4 rounds
I'd be more afraid of a 300 card battle of wits deck (4 copies) than a 300 card singleton; as a singleton it shouldn't be any harder to face than a competitive 100 card EDH deck; they decks must be designed for casual rather than competitive
Casual? do whatever you want. I have an elf deck that's sitting around 70 cards, but I built it for the theme and I don't want to cut anything. Many of the cards are only 1 or 2 copy's, but it's just a fun tribal deck and it plays fast enough and has some card draw that in a casual setting it has no real drawbacks
Come to think of it I should probably just reassemble it into a 100 card commander deck, no ones playing tribal anymore anyway